Our road trip took us to the gold rush town of Grass Valley. Out west, this is about as old as a town gets. We stayed at the Holbrooke Hotel, largely unchanged since it opened as a boarding house for newly-rich miners in 1851. The hotel lodged turn-of-the-(last)-century luminaries such as Mark Twain, Lola Montez, Lotta Crabtree, Gentleman Jim Corbett, a handful of US presidents and the outlaw Black Bart.