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Cradle
of Mankind, and Man Living Simply
Our first stop of
the day was Oldupai Gorge, where the Leakeys discovered Homo habilus,
the progenitor of modern man. Since there was no excavation going on
at the time, it looked like an ordinary valley, but the small museum
gave us a feel for the work that had been done there. Next we visited
a Maasai village and paid $10 each for a tour. The villagers danced
for us and then brought us into their homes.  Low
round huts built of thatch and cow dung, they are empty of all but the
most basic possessions - a hide to sleep on, a jug for water, a small
fire. I was uncomfortable there,
again feeling like a gawking tourist and wondering
if we were seeing a true picture of Maasai life or a show put on for gullible tourists.
 The
small children were delightful with their smiles and heartbreaking with
their ragged clothing and infected eyes. We took pictures with our digital
cameras and showed them the resulting image, which brought squeals of
joy. I noticed an older woman looking on curiously, so I took her picture
to show her. Her expression became one of absolute amazement. Her hand
covered her mouth in disbelief. She pointed at the small screen and
smiled. But when she tried to show another, that woman turned away angrily,
as if rejecting the seduction of modern technology.  With
that exchange I was reminded that there is no one true and authentic
"Maasai life." As with any group, individuals behave and think
in unique ways. Some are welcoming, others wary. Some see opportunity
in the interest given to their heritage, others remain resentful of
the outsiders' intrusion into their village. I left with a better understanding
of the dilemma trying to preserve a traditional culture in an ever-changing
world.
Endless
Plains
 At
the entrance to Serengeti National Park we stopped for a picnic lunch
as dozens of superb starlings begged for scraps as we ate. We walked
up a rocky overlook for our first glimpse of the Serengeti, named after
the Maasai word siringit, meaning  endless
plains. A pair of agama lizards sunned themselves on the rocks. The
female was gray-brown, but the male was resplendent with bands of magenta,
orange and deep blue. Lizards and other small animals live in these
rock outcroppings, or kopjes (pronounced "copies") that dot
the plains. They are among the oldest rocks in the worlds. Predators
also take advantage of the higher vantage point for scoping out game,
but we didn't see any. Yet.
Six
Pack
 The
Serengeti is known for its big cats, and not far into the park we came
across six juvenile
lions sleeping under a tree. Several vehicles were stopped nearby,
and one van without four-wheel drive became stuck. When driver got out
to assess the situation, the young lions perked up, looking just like
house cats eyeing a small bird. When the lions got up, the driver quickly
returned to his vehicle. The curious pack crossed among our vehicles
to an open field, and when they were a safe distance away, the driver
freed his vehicle with the help of our guide Abu. By then mama lion
had appeared, aroused by the movement of the youngsters. A large male
also lurked nearby. Luckily the vehicle was freed without incident.
The extra expense of booking with a reliable outfitter that promised
four-wheel drive vehicles in good condition suddenly seemed very worth
it.
 The
Serengeti had an entirely different feel from the wooded Tarangire and
the desolate crater. In places the golden plains extended beyond the
horizon, broken only by the isolated umbrella acacias and kopjes. In
other spots, small ponds were surrounded by lush green vegetation, looking
every bit like the oases they were. We spotted a young Nile crocodile
in one pond, and at another hippos stood outside the water, a rarity
in daylight. Close to the water's edge dense clusters of palm trees
grew, causing speculation as to how they got there. After we had ruled
out African swallows, our guide explained what instantly seemed obvious
- the trees grew from seeds in elephant dung, which accounted for the
tight clusters.
Serengeti
Serena Lodge
 Our
final lodge
was the best yet among a group of overwhelming accommodations. The rooms
were a series of round stone huts with thatched roofs. The spacious
open-air lobby and dining areas were supported by large carved figures.
I went for a refreshing swim in the cool waters of the vanishing-edge
pool, and returned to my room just in time to see the sun set over the
plains. As I sat on the balcony beneath the flaming sky it finally sunk
in where I was. In Africa, on safari, like I had dreamed for over a
decade. Days filled with the wildest of wildlife. Nights filled with
more stars than can be believed. And evenings filled with quiet brilliance.
Birthday
Party, Safari Style
The night we a 60th
birthday celebration for Chuck, the charismatic surgeon from Charleston.
The staff brought out a cake and sang the Jambo
song. Chuck was  adorned
a toilet paper headband and sash that read "Dung Chief" in
honor of his trip-long obsession with photographing every type of animal
dropping. We sang a parody of "The Beverly Hillbillies" in
honor of our new friend, and played a few games. The hotel manager came
in second place in the limbo contest. Chuck seemed to enjoy the festivities.
They sure were fun to plan. >>
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